Rock climbing at Craig a Barns

When the sun is shining, there is nothing better to do than to go rock climbing. A couple of weeks ago we headed to one of my favourite climbing venues: Craig a Barns near Dunkeld, more specifically Polney Crag, a classic Central Scotland venue. It is popular for its ease of access and great selection of single and multi-pitch climbs between Very Difficult and E3.

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A sea of green!

You can access the crag by taking an old military road West from Dunkeld for just over a kilometre before reaching a large dirt layby on the right (you will  have to bump your car up onto the curb). You then need to walk over a fallen down fence and follow a well defined path up to the right, where you will step out of the trees at the left hand side of the crag. Alternatively you can get the train (the station is just south of the town) and walk north through Dunkeld to access the military road west, out of the town.

Your main relocation point of the crag is the well defined abseil point; Hairy Gully, found in the middle of the wall. Be aware though that if wet, this gully can be rather slippery, muddy and generally horrible.

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Jess abseiling down Hairy Gully.

Polney Crag is home to a couple of fantastic VS 5a climbs: The Rut*** and The End***. Both are well-protected but will certainly get your heart racing as you pull through the crux moves, however, you will top out with a smile on your face. There are also many climbs to enjoy at V Diff, Severe and Hard Severe but be careful as some of them are poorly protected and would have the potential for a nasty ground fall if a slip were to occur.

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What a place to be!!

I have been to this crag a number of times now and each time I have been able to explore a different section of the place. It is also a super training ground for those wishing to move into the world of multi-pitch climbing. The rock can remain dry from tree cover but is quite vegetated in places meaning that on occasion, a sling around a tree is the obvious bit of pro.

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#belayselfie

So please go and enjoy Craig a Barns, lead your first V Diff, climb your first multi-pitch route or simply enjoy the excitement of The Rut. Watch out for that Hairy Gully though.

Enjoy!

 

Guide books:  Scottish Rock – South, Highland Outcrops and Rock Climbing in Scotland.

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