Rock climbing + sunshine = a very happy Chris! That’s what I got last week as a couple of friends and I headed to Traprain Law for a day of trad climbing.
Traprain Law lies just outside of Haddington near Edinburgh and is made up of two crags: the Lammer Wall and the Overhang Wall. Both have good climbing graded from Very Difficult to E1 and on good rock called trachyte. Parking is limited, as it’s on a verge beside a single track road, so it pays to get there early.
We were the first to arrive that day and chose to start on the Lammer Wall. This friendly angled slab can feel quite technical due to some small holds and small gear. This can make for some interesting climbing, especially on the M.S. route (HS) which does look a bit on the blank side at first glance.
Moving over to the Overhang Wall we get to my favourite climbs at this venue: Great Corner (severe) and Sabre Cut (VS 5a). These are both great and rather different climbs: great corner as you can imagine, is climbing up through a corner with good holds and big gear with some bridging required. Sabre cut has a great technical start on small holds before stepping out onto an exposed flake which can really get the blood pumping.
Climbing on the overhanging routes requires more technical skill as well as a profound belief in your rock shoes. To say its polished is an understatement and in the SMC guide it describes the friction as a wet bar of soap! I wholeheartedly agree. Take care on these climbs and be ready for some super slippery rock.
Traprain Law is a lovely venue which can become a nice sun trap in good weather, although due to the nature of the terrain it can stay wet, so I would recommend letting it dry for a day after heavy rain.
Big thanks to Sven and Kirsty for a great day climbing.
My top tip:
Wear your helmet! While we were on the Overhang Wall, someone climbing The Chute E1 5b fell off and his gear came out. He was very lucky to be ok, the name of the route coming into effect, but he did hit his head and one of the first things he said after the fall was “I should have had a helmet on.”