Rock climbing + sunshine = a very happy Chris! That’s what I got last week as a couple of friends and I headed to Traprain Law for a day of trad climbing.
Traprain Law lies just outside of Haddington near Edinburgh and is made up of two crags: the Lammer Wall and the Overhang Wall. Both have good climbing graded from Very Difficult to E1 and on good rock called trachyte. Parking is limited, as it’s on a verge beside a single track road, so it pays to get there early.
Access is very easy!
We were the first to arrive that day and chose to start on the Lammer Wall. This friendly angled slab can feel quite technical due to some small holds and small gear. This can make for some interesting climbing, especially on the M.S. route (HS) which does look a bit on the blank side at first glance.
Moving over to the Overhang Wall we get to my favourite climbs at this venue: Great Corner (severe) and Sabre Cut (VS 5a). These are both great and rather different climbs: great corner as you can imagine, is climbing up through a corner with good holds and big gear with some bridging required. Sabre cut has a great technical start on small holds before stepping out onto an exposed flake which can really get the blood pumping.
Climbing on the overhanging routes requires more technical skill as well as a profound belief in your rock shoes. To say its polished is an understatement and in the SMC guide it describes the friction as a wet bar of soap! I wholeheartedly agree. Take care on these climbs and be ready for some super slippery rock.
Traprain Law is a lovely venue which can become a nice sun trap in good weather, although due to the nature of the terrain it can stay wet, so I would recommend letting it dry for a day after heavy rain.
Big thanks to Sven and Kirsty for a great day climbing.
My top tip:
Wear your helmet! While we were on the Overhang Wall, someone climbing The Chute E1 5b fell off and his gear came out. He was very lucky to be ok, the name of the route coming into effect, but he did hit his head and one of the first things he said after the fall was “I should have had a helmet on.”
This classic Central Belt crag is easily accessible from Aberdour and offers some great adventurous climbing from Very Difficult (VD) to E2 6a. The crag is tidal, so a close look at the tide times charts for Rosyth is required to make best use of it. In my experience belayers are not keen on being perched on a rock as the tide moves in around them; however the routes to the far left are still accessible in high tide.
I have climbed at this venue a number of times now and I must say that it is one of my favourite places to climb near to Stirling. From the back of the car park you follow a path through some vegetation to a clearing, from here you can follow the path ahead to access the top of the crag or turn right for a short way before taking a steep path left down onto the beach. Once on the beach, after a minute or two you will get your first view of the classic of the crag, Pain Pillar VS 4c, which is an excellent and exposed pitch with a bold start. When I climbed it for the first time I could not help but keep an eye on the unforgiving rocks at the bottom, but as you make your way up it gets better and better with good holds, gear and views across the crag. If you are feeling photogenic then ask a mate (not your belayer!) to take a picture of your silhouette as you climb.
A happy Jessica topping out of Escalator (VD)
There is plenty to go at on this crag for new leaders; in fact I lead some of my first trad routes here and it was a great experience. Please be careful though as the top outs can be a wee bit loose and there are some very spiky gorse bushes that never fail to upset you. The flowers do smell nice though.
Climbing out before dark
Not only is there some quality climbing to be had here but also some brilliant views of the river Forth and the Forth Rail Bridge, making this a very pleasant place to be for an evening’s climbing.
Belaying on the last climb of the evening. Great view!!
Top tip – after climbing here give your climbing gear a good wash as sadly the salt water can damage it.
More information in the SMC Lowland Outcrops guide book and UK Climbing.